Project! Joss Pants in Linen by Seamwork

I'm blogging my way through some projects I finished in March and April, right before I got busy and did some traveling. A great thing about belated blogging is a lot of photos of your finished garments in action! So here we go:

Pattern: The Joss Pants by Seamwork. Yes, this is my second pair of Joss pants... this pair is much more outdoor-friendly.

Materials: 100% Linen from Joann's, thread and 1.5" elastic for the waistband. The pattern calls for 1" elastic, but I had 1.5" non-roll elastic in my stash and WOW, am I glad I went with that. Highly recommend a sturdy elastic for this waistband. 

 Cost: 3 yards of this linen came in at a whopping $46, plus another $4 for thread, bringing this project to $50, and making this my most expensive sewing project since my Bryant Gown! I do have a little linen leftover, so I'm hoping to squeeze a tank out of it for a little matching outfit look. 

Timeline: Fast and furious - I made these the first week of April, days before I left for France, when I realized I had very few options for comfy travel pants. Since I had sewn the pattern before, I knew I could bang them out in time. 

Sizing, mods, changes and notes on fitting: I sewed a straight size 12, adding a 1/2" in height to the waistband to accommodate the taller elastic. I also added the same slanted patch pockets I used on the first pair I sewed, which I drafted by following Seamwork's tutorial. 

Since I ended up adding a drawstring to my first pair of Joss pants, I added two buttonholes to the waistband this time. However - the non roll elastic is so sturdy and the linen fabric is so light that I definitely didn't need a drawstring and didn't end up adding it. So there are just two unused buttonholes, waiting on the waistband for the time they might be needed (which will probably never come). 

I go back and forth on the length - when I sit down they REALLY ride up, but when I'm standing I think they look great, so I probably would not change it. 

Feelings about this project: While I liked the first pair of Joss Pants I sewed, they were made out of knit jersey and are really more PJ-type pants. This version, however, is MAGIC. Every time I wear them, people ask where I got them, and then are disappointed when I tell them I made them (because I have nice friends who don't immediately ask me to make them a thing they want).

I love them and have worn them multiple times a week since I finished them. I wore them in Paris when it was chilly, I wore them in Joshua Tree when it was hot. They are versatile, comfy and look chic. They're the perfect pants for my current lifestyle and I am thrilled I FINALLY gave this pattern a second look. 

Project! Groovy Floral Striped Madhu Top by Seamwork

I'm blogging my way through some projects I finished in March and April, right before I got busy and did some traveling. So here we go:

Pattern: Surprise, it's another Seamwork Madhu! I love this pattern so much, and both of my tops get a LOT of wear. It might be time to make a third...

Materials: When I saw this beautiful, slightly groovy/slightly Hawaiian rayon at Remainders Creative Reuse, I knew it was destined to be a Madhu. It's a perfect match of fabric to pattern.

Cost: 2.5 yards of this rayon came in at $7.50, and the thread and elastic were in my stash, so a total of $7.50 for this top. Seriously, cannot beat Remainders.

Timeline: I bought this fabric at the same time as my fabric for my Capulet Dress, and cut them both at the same time, finishing at the end of March. 

Sizing, mods, changes and notes on fitting: I cut a size Medium and made no mods. Easy peasy! 

Feelings about this project: I waxed poetic about this pattern when I wrote about my Hawaiian Print Madhu Top, and my feelings have only deepened with this second version. It's a perfect t-shirt for me, I will love it forever, and I look forward to wearing it all summer long.

Project! Hawaiian Madhu Top from Seamwork (and matching skirt)

Pattern: The Madhu Top from Seamwork. I finished this one almost immediately after the pattern was released in 2021, but just getting to pictures now!

 

Materials: Ok, this is when retro-blogging gets me in trouble. I thiiiiink I purchased this fabric from fabric.com and that's... all I remember about it. I was shopping for fabric to make a simple dirndl skirt with an elastic waist - which was a project my friend, Amanda, requested we work through together. I bought enough fabric for a super gathered, fluffy skirt and matching top. (You can see the skirt in action here and here.) I never posted about the skirt in detail - it's a self-drafted pattern based on all the dirndl skirts I sewed as a Costume Design major in college. The back of the waistband is elastic (Amanda gets all credit for THAT amazing design idea) and a pocket, so I will love it forever.

That was the end of 2020, and I finally made a matching top when the Madhu pattern was released!

Sizing, mods, changes and notes on fitting: I thiiiiiink I made a size medium without any mods. This pattern is simple, comes together easily, and is STUNNING. I knew it would be blouse-y enough to get away without making any bust adjustments, and the elastic hides all sins. It's super comfortable, light, looks kinda dressy? And a *hint* of sexy? It's the perfect top and I can't believe I haven't made another one yet. I just bought fabric for a second one, and I have another fabric in my stash that might be a third!

Although not every Seamwork pattern is a home run for me, this one is like my own personal ideal t-shirt. After my success with their Benning Dress pattern last year (here's my floral Benning and my pumpkin spice plaid Benning), I am still firmly a Seamwork devotee. 

Feelings about this project: Do I have to say I love it again?? I love it, wear it all the time, dress it up and down and occasionally even wear it with the matching skirt!

Ps. If you're wondering what a dirndl skirt is - just imagine a giant rectangle of fabric, gathered into a waistband. 

Project! Seamwork Benning Dress in Vintage Sheets

Pattern: Another Seamwork Benning Dress, with a slightly shorter skirt and a collar. 

Materials: Vintage sheets! I have been collecting these sheets for the last 15 or so years, and this dress is made up of all the little bits of leftover sheet that weren't big enough for their own garments. They were all found at thrift stores or yard sales. 

Cost: "Free" aka I did not purchase any new materials for this project in recent memory, everything was from Deep Stash and it's monetary value has been lostttt to tiiiime. 

Timeline: Part of the bodice of this dress was actually the muslin for my Pumpkin Spice Benning, so I cut out the muslin in early November, and then finally cut out all the pieces during the last week of November and sewed it over Thanksgiving weekend. I used the back of the bodice muslin for this dress, cut the pockets out of the front bodice muslin piece, and cut a new front bodice based on my fitting. 

Sizing, mods, changes and notes on fitting: The bodice is the same as my Pumpkin Spice Benning Dress, with a weird 1" FBA that I ended up taking out of the front. I drafted a large collar for this dress, but honestly, it could be larger. I also shortened the first tier of the skirt by about 4", and added very long waist ties (they're probably like 50" long, extremely extra). 

Feelings about this project: I'm so into this pattern! Especially in the light, crisp cotton blends of the sheeting material, it's so easy to wear. I had originally planned to just use one different sheet per tier for the skirt, but I have so many fun sheets, I did a patchwork skirt instead with 8 different patterns on each tier. The design of this dress is heavily influenced by Physic Outlaw dresses - the patchwork, the tiers of fluffy skirts, the large collar! I am a huge fan of their dresses and the way they reuse vintage materials. 

Feelings about myself: I have worn this in public once and a hip youth complimented me, so I feel GREAT in this dress! I am slowly evolving my style, between aging and pandemic and not going to an office anymore, and this is a big step in the right direction. It just FEELS fun to wear. 

Feelings about the world: It's almost Christmas so I'm trying to stay positive. 

What I’ve been listening to or watching: I listened to the audiobook of The Midnight Library by Matt Haig while sewing this and cried a good amount, in a feel-good way. I think the big takeaway from this project is GOOD FEELS, FEELS GOOD! 

Project! Seamwork Benning Dress in Pumpkin Spice Plaid

Pattern: The Seamwork Benning Dress bodice, with a modified, multi-tiered skirt.

Materials: A Pumpkin Spice plaid from Ye Olde Joann’s, a brushed cotton yarn-dyed fabric. This fabric CALLED to me from the shelf. I was innocently shopping for Halloween Costume Supplies™ and it flew into my cart and demanded to be made into a maxi dress. After moving a few months ago, I am very aware that I do not need any more fabric, yarn or craft supplies, but this one GOT ME. 

Cost: $46 for 5 yards of fabric and $3 for thread.

Timeline: I've been eyeing this pattern since it was released in March of 2021. I bought the fabric early September 2021, and finally finished sewing it last week, early November 2021.

Sizing, mods, changes and notes on fitting: I cut a size 12 in this pattern, but my measurements would have put me at a size 16. There's a lottttt of ease built in, so if you want something more fitted, size down. My dress is still relaxed and very easy to wear. 

I did a 1" FBA, but after making a muslin, I ended up pinching out that same inch at the center front. This brought the neckline in on my shoulders and the darts closer to my apex, and meant that I had to redraw the center V, since I loved how deep it was drafted. Overall, I am thrilled with the fit of the bodice after making these round-about changes. I also added ties at the side seams for a versatile belt that could give me more waist definition when I'm in the mood for it (which is almost always).

The fabric also told me it wanted to be EXTRA and needed a LOT of skirt. So instead of the two tiers, I cut four, each 12" high and increasing the width by 1.5x for each tier. The last tier is only 6" high, and woah, is it kicky! Maybe a little bit country?

Feelings about this project: Gathering is so much work and I should have gotten a gathering foot before I attempted this project, but I'm all about using what I've got and not buying new equipment for every single project.

Feelings about myself: I loved this pattern from the moment I saw it – it is just so WEAR-able. I know that I’m not the only one to crave easier clothes over the last 18 months, but I also love getting dressed in more than pj’s or sweatpants. It helps my mood, and the more I make the effort, the better I find myself adjusting to working from home. I feel more like a ME, you know? So having this dress that fits well and makes me feel so extra is awesome and inspiring. I already have a second one cut out.

Feelings about the world: Katie, why are you resurrecting this blog (again)?? I'm feeling burnt out on the non-stop advertising of certain social media platforms, and I really miss having a cohesive record or diary or journal of my creative projects. So here I am again, writing a much-too-long post about the ins and outs of this project, if only so I can read it back to myself later when I wonder how or why I made this or that. Hopefully there's a little information here for anyone else that might want to know, too. And I'm using a template to make it easy on myself, so you'll see these same questions answered for each project.

What I’ve been listening to or watching: I listened to the audio book version of "Broken Horses" by Brandi Carlile while sewing this dress. Kind of a perfect match for a dress that's a little bit country! I love Brandi as a musician and this book struck me deep. I cried about every 20 minutes, and if you listen to the audio book, she plays the songs from each chapter as it goes along. Truly masterful storytelling, and I haven't stopped listening to her albums since I finished the book.